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How to Install a Tile Floor: Tools and Equipment You'll Need

How to Install a Tile Floor: Tools and Equipment You'll Need

A Step-by-Step Guide for DIYers

Tile floors are an attractive, functional option for kitchens, bathrooms, laundry rooms and entryways. Installing a tile floor in any of these rooms will give you an easy-to-clean, waterproof floor that holds up against weather and wear. If your tile floors are worn or chipped, or you're simply ready for an upgrade, follow this guide to learn how to install a tile floor yourself. This guide also covers how to prep your space, what type of tile tools and supplies you'll need and how to install tile flooring properly. Difficulty: Intermediate. Duration: Over 1 day.

Choose Tiles and Prep the Space

Learning how to lay floor tiles is a fairly simple process, but it takes a bit of preparation. Tile comes in a variety of styles, colors and patterns. Find out all you can about the types of tiles available before you decide.

Your subfloor should be able to support tile, mortar, grout and furniture when the project is complete. It should be clean, dry and flat. Inspect your subfloor and correct any dips, cracks or uneven places that will cause your tile to buckle or not install properly. If you have a plywood or OSB subfloor, install a water-resistant cement backer board as your underlayment. Concrete subfloors typically do not require backer board.

Measure the area to ensure you have enough tile. Mix tiles from all the boxes so that minor color differences from each dye lot will not be noticeable.

Tip: Research how to prepare a subfloor before you begin your DIY tile floor project.

Gather Tools and Materials

When installing a tile floor, you will need the following tools:
  • Tile cutter
  • Rubber mallet
  • Tile spacers
  • Level
  • Tile trowel
  • Thin-set mortar or another recommended mortar

Thin-set is cement-based, but some mortars are labeled as non-modified and require a latex polymer admixture. The latex polymer admixture will improve the performance of the mortar and increase bond strength. Make sure to get the trowel size, mortar type and other tile setting materials such as spacers that are recommended by your tile's manufacturer.

For cutting tiles, there are several tool options: a manual snap cutter, an electric wet tile saw and a tile nipper. The manual snap cutter is generally used for smaller jobs. For jobs that require cutting many tiles, a wet saw is best. For specialty cuts around things like plumbing fixtures, pipes and round corners, a tile nipper comes in handy.

Tip: For one-off projects and DIY home renovations, consider renting a mud mixing drill and tile saw from a local rental provider.

Use a Layout

When tiling a floor, draw a layout of your finished tile design directly onto your subfloor. The layout's lines show you where to start laying floor tiles and help ensure the tiles are properly centered in the room. Layout lines must be square, otherwise you will end up with odd-shaped tiles at the walls. 

  1. Create a floor plan. Draw the walls of the room as accurately as possible on a sheet of grid paper. Include doorways, cabinets, fixtures, floor obstructions and any tile edging or trim.
  2. Find the center of the room. Measure all four walls and mark their midpoints.
  3. Snap the chalk lines. Snap one chalk line between the midpoints of two opposite walls. Snap a second line between the other two walls. Where the lines intersect is the center point of the room.
  4. Check that the lines are square. Starting at the intersection, mark a point 3 feet along one chalk line and another point 4 feet along the perpendicular line. Measure diagonally between the two points. If the distance is exactly 5 feet, the lines are square.
  5. Adjust the lines if needed. If the lines are not square, the tiles may be off-center and make the room look unbalanced. If the room itself is not square, which is common, adjust one line and then square the other using the 3-4-5 method.

Tip: Make a floor plan and mark the dimensions of your scale. For example, 1 inch gridline = 1 foot of floor space.

Test the Layout

Before installing the tile with mortar, test the layout by doing a dry run. This will help you check the tile placement and make any necessary adjustments before installation.

  1. Start at the center. Lay a single half row of floor tiles in both directions, starting at the center point and working outward. Do not use mortar.
  2. Check the tile direction. Some tiles have directional arrows on the back. Keep these arrows pointing in the same direction to ensure proper pattern alignment.
  3. Add spacers. Insert tile spacers between each tile to account for the grout joints.
  4. Check the edge tiles. Stop when there is not enough room for a full tile.
  5. Adjust the layout if needed. If the space at the end of either row is less than one-third of a tile, adjust your chalk lines so the tiles along each side of the room are at least half a tile wide.

Prepare the Thin-Set Mortar

Thin-set mortar is a common bonding agent used to attach tiles to the backer board or concrete subfloor. It is made of cement and fine sand and will need to be mixed with water if bought dry. 

  1. Mix the thin-set. In a large bucket, mix the thin-set with water using a drill and mixing paddle. Follow the manufacturer’s directions for the correct proportions.
  2. Allow the mortar to slake. After mixing, let the mortar stand for five to 10 minutes, or for the amount of time specified by the manufacturer. This slake time allows the chemicals in the mortar to fully activate.
  3. Mix only what you can use. Thin-set has a limited working life. Avoid mixing a batch that is too large, or it may begin to harden before you can use it.
  4. Clean your mixing paddle. Clean the paddle promptly after mixing so the mortar does not harden on it.
  5. Use the appropriate mortar for your tile. Porcelain tile typically requires a polymer-modified thin-set to achieve the proper bond between the tile and substrate. Follow the tile manufacturer’s recommendations.
  6. Prepare the backer board. When installing tile over backer board, lightly dampen the surface with a spray bottle before spreading the thin-set. Continue dampening the backer board as you work to prevent it from drawing moisture out of the mortar too quickly.

Use a Tile Trowel

Tile trowels have both a smooth edge and a notched edge. The notches are called teeth. The depth and width of the teeth of your trowel depend on the type and size of the tile. The size of the notch determines how much thin-set is left on the floor under the tile. Typically, the larger the tile, the larger the notch should be.

Use your trowel to scoop out a generous amount of mortar from your mix bucket. When you're ready to start applying mortar, spread the thin-set with the flat side of the trowel. Press it into the backer board or subfloor at roughly a 45-degree angle. This will ensure the mortar fully adheres.

Tip: Follow the tile manufacturer's recommendations when choosing a trowel.

Step-by-Step Tile Installation Process

Once your layout is set and your mortar is mixed, follow these steps to lay your tile floor correctly from start to finish.

  1. Test Mortar Consistency and Set First Tiles

    Spread thin-set onto a small test area at the center of your layout. Put the first test tile onto the thin-set bed, slide it 1/4-inch back against the thin-set ridges, then slide it back into place. Pull the tile up and check the back. It should be completely covered with thin-set. If areas are not covered, correct your mix or technique before proceeding. Once confirmed, re-lay your first tile aligned with the chalk lines. Place two spacers along the side where you will add a tile, one on each end, positioned so they stick up and out. Set your second tile by aligning edges and corners, then hinging it down.

  2. Continue Laying Tiles with the Notched Trowel

    Comb the thin-set using the notched side of your trowel, holding it at a 45-degree angle and lightly pushing the trowel teeth to the floor. Comb in one direction only. Avoid circular or swirling patterns. Use a small, thin trowel to remove a small amount of thin-set around the edges of your tiles as you go. As you lay each tile, check them for dirt or dust. Use a damp sponge to clean off any mortar that ends up on top of the tiles before it dries. Tip: Always follow the chalk lines of your layout to ensure you're laying tiles in a straight line.

  3. Level the Tiles

    After installing three or four tiles, make sure they are level. Place a 2 x 4 on top and tap lightly with a rubber mallet to level the tiles and embed them firmly in the mortar. Continue spreading mortar and setting additional tiles. Check your alignment by stepping back every so often and looking down the tile edges to be sure the lines are straight. If you find alignment issues while the mortar is still wet, you can straighten them before continuing.

  4. Complete Full Tiles and Allow Mortar to Cure

    Finish laying tiles in your first quadrant. You'll then be left with the space between those tiles and the wall where cut tiles are required. Finish laying all full tiles in your other three quadrants and let the mortar harden. Most mortars require you to stay off the tile for 24 hours. If you need to take a break, always scrape up any mortar overlapping into an area you are about to tile. Tip: Plan your flooring installation so that you have an exit without stepping on any tiles before the thin-set hardens in about 24 hours.

  5. Cut and Install Edge Tiles

    Measure and cut the tiles to fit the space left along the wall. Leave an expansion gap between the tiles and the wall as recommended by the tile manufacturer. Lay out, mark and cut small groups of tiles at a time and leave them in the space where they will be installed. Measure twice before you cut. To cut a curve, mark the cutting line, then cut away bits of tile with tile nippers and smooth the cut edge with an abrasive stone. When tiling with natural stone or porcelain floor tile, always cut with a wet saw to prevent breaking or chipping.

  6. Apply Grout

    Once your tile floor is complete, remove all tile spacers before grouting. Protect baseboards, trim and neighboring floors with painter's tape. Mix grout according to package directions. Spread grout in sweeping arcs with the rubber grout float held at a shallow angle, applying at a 45-degree angle to the spaces between tiles. Press grout into the joints completely, focusing on small 4-by-4-foot sections. Remove excess grout with the float held at 45 degrees, working diagonally across joints. Mist the grout twice a day for three days to slowly cure it. Do not walk over the surface for eight to 12 hours. For joints 1/8-inch to 1/2-inch, use sanded grout. For joints up to 1/8-inch, use non-sanded grout. Fill gaps between tile and wall with caulk to keep water from getting under the tile or into the wall.

  7. Clean Excess Grout

    Remove excess grout promptly to avoid grout haze, which happens when grout dries on a tile and dulls the finish. Take a damp sponge and make light passes across the tiles diagonally. Wring the sponge until no water drips from it before cleaning. Use both edges of each side of the sponge and be careful not to press the sponge into the gaps. Rinse the sponge frequently in clean water and change the water frequently. Remove any remaining grout haze with an old T-shirt or cheesecloth. If needed, try a grout haze remover solution.

  8. Seal the Grout

    Sealing your grout is essential to keeping grout lines clean and looking like new. Grout sealer provides invisible protection for grout and helps prevent stains and mildew and mold growth. Choose a sealer with a built-in applicator or use a grout sealer application bottle. Wipe up any excess sealer within 10 minutes. In most cases, allow the grout to cure for about three days before applying sealer. Tip: Expect your grout sealer to last an average of one to two years before needing to reapply it. If water drops on existing grout seem to soak in, it's time to reseal.

  9. Finish the Installation

    Remove the painter's tape from any protected surfaces. Cover the 1/4-inch expansion gap left along the walls with either matching bullnose tile trim or wood quarter-round moulding. Add any desired thresholds between your tiled floor and neighboring floors.

Frequently Asked Questions About Tile Floor Installation

What type of subfloor do I need before installing tile?
Your subfloor should be clean, dry and flat, and able to support tile, mortar, grout and furniture. If you have a plywood or OSB subfloor, install a water-resistant cement backer board as your underlayment. Concrete subfloors typically do not require backer board. Inspect your subfloor and correct any dips, cracks or uneven places before you begin.
What tools do I need to install a tile floor?
You will need a tile cutter (manual snap cutter, electric wet tile saw or tile nipper), a rubber mallet, tile spacers, a level, a tile trowel and thin-set mortar. The type and size of trowel, mortar and spacers should match what the tile manufacturer recommends. For one-off projects, consider renting a mud mixing drill and tile saw from a local rental provider.
How do I make sure my tile layout is square?
Snap two chalk lines from the midpoints of opposite walls. Where they intersect is your room's center point. To verify square, mark a point 3 feet on one chalk line and 4 feet on the perpendicular chalk line from the intersection. If the diagonal distance between those two points is exactly 5 feet, your lines are square.
How long does thin-set mortar take to cure?
Most thin-set mortars require you to stay off the tile for 24 hours. Different mortars have different curing times, so always follow the package directions. Do not add water after the thin-set begins to harden, as this weakens the mortar and affects bonding.
What type of grout should I use?
For joints 1/8-inch to 1/2-inch wide, use sanded grout. For joints up to 1/8-inch wide, use non-sanded grout. Follow the tile manufacturer's recommendations. Almost all cement grouts have latex polymer in the powder mix, while others require a latex polymer admixture.
How do I prevent and remove grout haze?
Remove excess grout promptly using a damp sponge with light diagonal passes across the tiles. Wring the sponge well before cleaning and rinse it frequently in clean water. Remove remaining haze with an old T-shirt or cheesecloth, or use a grout haze remover solution if needed. Try to remove all haze before it dries completely.
Do I need to seal the grout after installation?
Yes. Sealing grout is essential to keeping grout lines clean and preventing stains, mildew and mold. Allow the grout to cure for about three days before applying sealer. Grout sealer typically lasts one to two years before you need to reapply it.
How do I handle gaps between the tile and the wall?
Fill gaps between the tile and the wall with caulk. Caulk will fill the gap, stick to the tile face, remain waterproof, resist cracking and can be replaced easily. While you can also fill the gaps with mortar or grout, caulk is more flexible, waterproof and easier to repair.

Need a Tile Saw or Mixing Drill for Your Project?

For one-off DIY tile floor projects and home renovations, renting a wet tile saw or mud mixing drill is a smart, cost-effective alternative to buying. Rntr connects you with local rental providers who have the professional-grade tools you need for daily or weekly rental, with pickup or delivery options available.
Find Tile Tools for Rent Near You
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